CHAPTER FORTY EIGHT: CHRISTMAS ISLAND, GEORGIA 2012

CHAPTER FORTY EIGHT: CHRISTMAS ISLAND, GEORGIA 2012

Several months ago as the Admiral and I were planning our cruise south from the Chesapeake, I searched for “Christmas Island” in Georgia. We knew we were going to stay somewhere north of Florida until January 1. So I thought with all the islands along the coast of Georgia, one is certainly named “Christmas”. Sure enough, my search produced “Christmas Island, Georgia”, better known on maps as Jekyll Island. Jekyll earned its seasonal moniker by making such a big deal about Christmas, with lots of open houses and teas in the Historic District and great light displays as well. We had stayed a night or two at Jekyll as we headed north, and I remembered biking through the Historic District and out along the beaches. The Historic District is a bunch of mansions that really, really wealthy people (robber barons) built a century ago, but still own and still use. These wealthy people also built a manor-like “Club” where they could get together if they got too lonely knocking around all the empty rooms in their own mansions. We’re talking Vanderbilt kind of wealth. Anyway, I figured they would know how to put on a good Christmas light show, and if they wanted to open their doors to me at Christmas time, more the better.

So far, Jekyll Island has not disappointed as the place to be for Christmas. Last night, Christmas Eve, I went to a candlelight service at the Methodist Church that was both short and sweet. We sang my two favorite Christmas hymns, “O Little Town of Bethlehem” and “Silent Night”. Everyone who wanted communion (that meant every one of the 40 parishioners but me and a crotchety looking older man) got it, and we were still through with the entire service, lighting our candles and everything, in half an hour. People came from all over the country to this service – Maine, the Midwest, the Deep South, Florida – the minister asked us to shout out our home states at the start of the service. And I was recognized for having traveled the farthest. But that wasn’t the high point of this church experience. The high point was when I started singing “O Little…”, and I actually felt the presence of my mother in her strong alto voice right next to me. We always went to the Christmas Eve candlelight service together, and we always sang the alto parts together. What a rush of memories! Mother died in 2009, and this is the closest I have felt to her since then. I was so elated that I almost cried, but I kept singing, so that I would keep the connection with her. It was very cool.

The Admiral turns into the Grinch at Christmas time. We had received presents from his daughters, which he said we could not open until Christmas Eve. After driving through the Christmas-y Historic District, upon leaving the church, I returned to Slow Motion to open our presents. But the Admiral was still in a Grinch mood, preferring the news on his Iphone to unwrapping a few presents. This is where we are clearly incompatible, since I adore Christmas and love opening presents. So while the Admiral read the news, I enjoyed the candlelight service in my own private reverie. Finally, when there was no more news, we opened our presents. Thank you so much, Sabina and Sandra, for the great books you chose for us. You know I love to read and the Admiral really enjoys a good spy novel. So bravo – good show!

The Admiral allowed as how Christmas Eve was not so bad after all, and we spent the rest of the evening blissfully unaware of world news. Around midnight Mrs. Claus was seen pushing a big cart of wrapped presents to her sailboat, where here three little children were dreaming of gingerbread nanopods. Slow Motion looked elegant in her Christmas lights. There was no snow, no rain – and amazingly no wind. The Admiral had made a hearty beef stroganoff from scratch for Christmas Eve dinner, so we went to sleep with our bellies full and our spirits soaring.

This Christmas morning, we were greeted by fog, then clouds, then a little bit of rain. But that did not deter us from exploring the northern shore of Jekyll Island. There is a fishing pier down a narrow road, past the horse corrals, beyond the oyster beds. And there is also the most beautiful beach full of huge pieces of driftwood, as well as fully uprooted trees that have weathered over time and stand or lie as the most intricate sculptures all over the beach. The Admiral learned about the right bait to use for pier fishing and what kinds of fish were being caught off the pier (different kinds of sharks and “whitings”). We walked among the driftwood monuments and then up a horse path into a bower of trees smothered in Spanish moss that is the thickest growth of Spanish moss I have seen anywhere in the South. As we headed back to our rentacar, the rain stopped and the sun appeared, drying and warming the air immediately. This was a very good omen for the Christmas potluck at the Jekyll Harbor Marina that we had signed up for.

My oh my, what a feast! And the people! It doesn’t seem like there are that many people on the boats that are tied up at the Jekyll Island Marina. But at least 40 folks showed up for the potluck at 2 pm, and they were loaded with great food and good cheer. Turns out that some of them are “land cruisers”, who just happen to think that Jekyll Island is the place to be for Christmas. Others keep their boats at the marina, but live elsewhere. However, on Christmas Day, they come to the marina for the potluck. These folks know how to cook. We had three smoked turkeys, a smoked ham, two different kinds of sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, gravy, green bean casserole, fresh green salad, fresh made cranberry sauce, lots of other bean dishes (this is the South) – handmade stuffing. The man who made it said he cut up the bread pieces himself (just like my sister does), and he even cut up a ciabatta. Did I mention that there was a dessert table? That’s where the Admiral and I added to the feast. We provided a variegated cheese cake (12 different slices) and fudgy, deep chocolate brownies. I knew the three sailboat kids would not be able to make it through the feast without chocolate. And I was right! At the end of the meal, I approached their mother and asked if she would mind taking the remaining brownies. “Would I mind? The ones with the fudge icing that my daughter says I have to learn to make? Why no, I wouldn’t mind taking a few.” By that time her daughter had edged over to the conversation, and she piped up: “We’ll take them all!” Done deal.

The fellow that smoked the turkeys, Scott, has apparently been at the Jekyll Harbor Marina for less than six months, but he is a really friendly guy and clearly aims to make this Marina a boater friendly place. He is succeeding, if this Christmas potluck is any indication. I read that they had had 70 for a Thanksgiving Feast just the month before. So keep up the good work, Scott, and you will have folks coming back year after year.

Sunset alert! We are having the most amazing red/gold/mauve/pink sunset. I had to stop to take some photos. The pictures are never as dramatic as the real thing. But my mind’s eye always can summon up the brilliant colors that have actually filled the sky. It’s 5:30 p.m. on Christmas Day, and we are bathed in beauty. I hope you are too wherever you are.