CHAPTER ONE HUNDRED AND ELEVEN: THE DESERT, THE WEST COAST AND ETERNAL SUMMER IN THE KEYS
CHAPTER ONE HUNDRED AND ELEVEN: THE DESERT, THE WEST COAST AND ETERNAL SUMMER IN THE KEYS
It is January 17, 2014. We have returned from our visits
to family in Arizona and friends and neighbors – and our dog, Zorro – in
California. I miss Zorro. He had the saddest face I’ve ever seen on a dog, as
we left him lying on Brenda and Royal’s floor at 6:15 a.m. on Tuesday the 14th.
I will never forget that face. It’s always hard to leave Zorro, especially
after a 12 day visit filled with hikes in the park and warm cuddles in bed and
excited greetings every time I came through the gate on to the patio at
Calkins/Moore’s home. That dog sure knows how to express his love. Anna says
he’s the most complicated dog she has ever known. Complicated? Not sure. But
he’s extremely sensitive, and that’s why it’s so hard on him when we leave. I
know that he loves his Ruby, the black mixed Lab with whom he lives. And he is
very much at home in Harper Canyon, running into Toro (renamed Zorro) Park and
herding the new cows who just arrived to graze and procreate with two fecund
bulls. I still can’t imagine taking him away from the park lands and ranch
lands he loves to roam. Slow Motion is a great home, but not for a Queensland
Heeler who needs to run miles every day. I don’t even know if Zorro can swim,
although the Admiral says that all dogs can swim. Zorro has a great life in the
hills of California, so I have suppressed my selfish desire to have him travel
with us. Still, that look….
There is no way I can write about all the highlights of
the last month. But here are a few. My sister Sue made all the comfort food I
could ever want, especially the Christmas comfort food – holupkies, pirogies,
kiffels, apple pie, roast pork and sauer kraut, scrambled eggs and homemade
bread toast, crisp bacon, ham and sweet potatoes. The kiffels kept falling off
their plate, but fortunately the Admiral was there to catch them before they
hit the floor. Oy veh – we both added about five pounds between Christmas and
New Years with Sue and Butch.
Sue and I went to Biosphere 2 in Oracle, north of Tucson –
what a crazy idea! Eight people entered this hermetically sealed world to grow
their own food, make their own energy (sort of) and live independently of the
rest of the world. As you may know, they lasted two years (1991-1993), but they
kept losing weight until they were all skeletal. The food that they grew was
nutritional, but they didn’t grow enough. And they had to work so hard to keep
themselves alive that they burned all the calories they ate. Of course, the
mentor of the group, Dr. Roy Walford, twice as old as most of the other 7 crew
members, believed that human beings needed very few calories to live. And he
tested his theory on his starving colleagues. They were hungry all the time in
their first year together, but were able to produce a ton more of food (bananas,
papayas, sweet potatoes, beets, peanuts, cowpea beans, rice and wheat) the
second year and put a little weight back on. Dr. Walford also believed that his
low calorie diet prevented all forms of cancer and extended one’s lifespan. All
crew members lowered their cholesterol and blood pressure and improved their
immune systems. They lost an average of 16% of their body weight. That old/new
nemesis, CO2, played havoc with their lives and nearly did them in. The levels
of carbon dioxide fluctuated “wildly” (Wikipedia) and killed off most of the
good (pollinating) insects, while allowing the cockroaches and ants to thrive.
Footnote on Dr. Walford: He was born in 1924, entered the
Biosphere in 1991 at age 67, and died in 2004 of respiratory failure and
complications from ALS (Lou Gehrig’s disease) at the age of 79. Did he extend
his life with his CRON (Calorie Restriction with Optimal Nutrition) diet?
Probably. He was 5 feet, eight inches tall, weighed 134 pounds and had the body
of a gymnast (which he was in high school). He had an extremely interesting
life, well worth reading more about his exploits and his theories on aging.
The Admiral and I went hiking in Sabino Canyon in
Coronado National Forest on a cold morning. Our 5 mile trek was mostly in the
shadows, as the sun started to rise and hit the canyon walls to the west of us.
It felt good to be in a southwestern environment, surrounded by all kinds of
cacti, particularly the majestic saguaro cactus. We were told that there had
been recent sightings of mountain lions on this trail, so we were ever
vigilant. I’m happy to report that we had no close encounters with any member
of the cat family. There were other intrepid hikers, and a few rail-like
joggers who shared the “Phone Line” Trail with us. We were in the foothills of
the Santa Catalina Mountains. It had rained recently, so we enjoyed the sound
of the creek coming down the mountain with us. The trek was moderately
difficult, but we were both so out of shape for this activity that we walked
around stiff legged for a day or two after. I don’t think we lost any weight on
the hike. Even if we did, we returned to my sister’s house, and the kiffels
kept falling from the plate into our hands. Thank God we only have access to
them at Christmas time.
Sue and Butch experienced a starry, starry night on Mt.
Lemmon, courtesy of their children, who know how much Butch enjoys astronomy
and taking photos of the stars he sees through his telescope. The Schulman
Telescope (32 inches in diameter), the largest in Arizona, sits atop Mt.
Lemmon, and a leading astronomer/photographer (Adam Block) made himself
available to show the telescope to them, as well as to take Butch through every
step of his photography process. It was very cold for them that night – and Sue
was prepared, wearing about 6 layers of clothing. It was chilly during the
stargazing portion of the evening, but it warmed up considerably for the technical
presentation of how to develop the photographs. Butch scored a stunning photo,
signed by the astronomer/photographer, of the 4 nebulae of Orion (looks like a
trapezoid).
I had a great visit with David and Lisa and their kids,
David Kyle, Anastasia, and Nathan. They are adapting well in their return to
Arizona from the arctic environs of Schenectady, New York. David has bought Fed
Ex routes in a few locations in Arizona, and he is thrilled to be his own boss
after too many years of wrangling with the higher ups at Target. I am so happy
for him. Now if only he could convince brother Dwight to jump out of the
corporate maelstrom and into entrepreneurship, they would be unstoppable,
unbeatable and unparalleled in their fraternal success.
I don’t really remember the day between our return to Key
Largo the night of December 31st and my flight to San Francisco on
the 2nd of January. But my memories of the days in California are
still vivid. The first big highlight was visiting with Cathy and Rob in Santa
Cruz. True, I chose a rotten restaurant, Chocolate, for lunch. How could a name
with so much promise be so disappointing? From the dried out quiche, a house
specialty, to the runny, fairly tasteless chicken mole sandwich, another
so-called specialty, to the incredibly poor service, this place is a dud. Three
different waitpersons handled the bill, with three successive trips to the table
(1) presenting the bill and taking the card; 2) returning to report that the
bill was wrong and they were going to charge more; 3) returning to report that
they didn’t take American Express – they had the card for 15 minutes before
this idea came to them), and as each one left the table, Cathy removed another
dollar from the tip. I mean, come on! If you’re going to serve terrible food,
the least you can do is stick to the original bill and take Amex credit cards.
Before and after lunch, Cathy, Rob and I explored the Book Shop, an indie book
store in downtown Santa Cruz. I scored the Rachel Maddow book, Drift, and Cathy
also treated me to another Kingsolver novel. Book stores can make up for a bad
restaurant experience, and this one did. It also helped to have street
musicians all over the downtown streets of Santa Cruz, playing alone, in duos,
trios and small bands. The day was sunny and warm, so we headed to the beach.
All the time we were together, Rob was taking photos. Watching him set up a
shot, or doing a 360 series of shots, is watching genius at work. He has this
Michael Jordan thing going, with his mouth open and tongue to the side, as he
zooms in on “The Shot”. Cathy and I always have the best time just walking and
talking. We should be writing our 20th novel about now, but the
public is going to have to wait another year or two, until we get disciplined
enough to share the creative process.
Every morning while in California, as soon as I moved my
little finger, or made any tiny sound, Zorro was at the bedroom door softly
whining and scratching – Time for our Walk! The “Walk” was a daily hike of two
miles or more, either on the flat path to the water cistern or up the
switchbacks to Olassen’s Meadow and down the cliff to the water cistern and
home. Most of the time Ruby joined Zorro and me, although at the end of each
day she was limping badly, and it looked like there was no way she would be
going with us in the morning. Yet, every morning except one she was completely
rejuvenated and trotted with her sideways gait (no limp in sight) up the trails
with Zorro and me. A rancher from South County recently put some new cows and
two new bulls on the grasslands in the park. The bulls, one completely black
(Angus) and one completely white (Charolais), have a lot of cows to choose
from. It looks like they’re coexisting for the moment. Last June, Zorro and I
came across two bulls who were fighting for supremacy. Naturally, Zorro wanted
to herd them in the middle of their head-butting. They pretty much ignored him,
thank God. This time Zorro herded Angus and Charolais without incident. They
obediently got in line with the cows and headed off to the water tank.
Advance now to February 3, the day after the Denver
Broncos proved once again that defense wins championships, and lack of defense,
well, you know – 43 to 8. And it wasn’t that close. After our idyllic visit in
Harper Canyon, we returned to watch the rest of the country dig out of a foot
of snow or skate across icy freeways. Here in Key Largo the weather is in the
mid to high 70’s. Some days are windy (15 to 25 mph gusts); some aren’t.
Sometimes it rains. But usually the sun rises relentlessly at 7 a.m. and beats
down on Slow Motion until 5:30 p.m. And almost every day in paradise the
Admiral works on constructing a complicated data base for a nonprofit
organization in Illinois, while I go off to practice tai chi at the local Lions
Club. The tai chi group in Key Largo is big. I can take classes every morning,
Monday through Thursday, and on two afternoons, Tuesday and Thursday. Yesterday
I got a ride with another tai chi student to Harris Park to do our 108 movements
in the sand. We were right on the ocean. There were about 12 of us. The breeze
blew in our faces. We moved as one organism. Oh, how I wish that were true! But
I’m just learning, so most of my moves are a second or two behind the moves of
every other student. The teacher puts me in the middle of the group so that I
can be surrounded by people who know what they’re doing and pick up the moves
by osmosis. If you haven’t tried tai chi, do yourself a favor: Find a tai chi
class near you and get there as soon as you can. For the entire class time,
your world becomes tai chi movements – breathing, balancing, turning, moving
the lymph around, stretching, bending, and stockpiling pheromones. Oops, I
mean, endorphins – actually both.
The Admiral and I got our fishing licenses for Florida
renewed, and we plan to rent a small fishing boat and go out on to the ocean in
search of some edible, sustainable fish. Last time I went fishing -- $40 for a
half day on a commercial boat – I caught two small sharks and a few other fish,
like weakfish, that were too small to keep. Our neighbor here at Marina del Mar
takes other people fishing and they return with not very much. He always says
the fishing is easy, but it’s the catching that eludes him. Same here. The Admiral
bought some tasty bait that should attract fish big enough to eat. We’re
waiting for a day with winds under 10 mph and waves under 2 feet. Don’t worry,
my friend, that day will come. There have been a few days like that so far. And
while we wait, I am busy developing my tai chi skills.
When not learning this gentle martial art, I have been
reading the books that Cathy bought for me. I finished Prodigal Summer by
Kingsolver. She is an amazing naturalist, conservationist and writer. And her
characters sweep you into their worlds. The women in her books are not perfect
by any means, but the protagonists always have certain admirable qualities,
like non-conformity, courage and both a desire and willingness to adapt to
whatever tragedies hit their lives. I am now reading Rachel Maddow’s book,
Drift, which has so far been a great sleep inducer. It’s not a “snooze”, but
the chapter on the “war” against tiny Grenada was, shall I say, challenging to
my consciousness. Maddow writes just like she speaks – her manner of speaking
is entertaining, but the style does not translate well to the written word. I’ll
finish the book, out of respect for her intellect. But get me back to fiction –
quick!
Okay, my snow bunnies in the northeast, enjoy your 8 to
12 inches of snow. In about a week, when you look at your gray, slushy landscape,
start planning your trip to the Keys. We’re ready for you. You don’t need to
throw much into the suitcase – shorts and a tee shirt and sandals. A toothbrush
is always a good idea. We’ll take you fishing and walking and biking, tour the
wild bird refuge, visit Key West (during the week), and – oh, you can just come
here and veg – soak up the Vitamin D (under a thick cover of sunscreen), catch
up on your reading, relax. Sound good? Then what are you waiting for? Come on
down to the land of eternal summer.
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